Showing posts with label Merida. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Merida. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Get out of town

A few parting shots of our stay in Merida... First some of the tile floors we saw.

Then just a some random shots...
This is the side of a building near our hotel. SO BRIGHT!

This was a sign on the wall for a what I think was a restaurant. Roughly translated it may mean, "The one-eyed pig - cooked in a pit and beer"


My new favorite store in Mexico, Liz Minelli. I also love her singing.

In the marketplace.

My third favorite salon de beauté. You just know you'll be gorgeous when it says Pretty Woman over the door!


My favorite entertainer in the marketplace!

Folkloric Dancers of Merida, Mexico


During the middle of Sunday Festival they had traditional Folkloric dancers. The costumes were stunning the performance was stellar. The heat stifling. There was some shade for the dancers and the viewers, but Lyle and I gave up about halfway through.

My favorite dancer. So elegant and regal.


My second favorite dancer. She had such an expressive face and personality.

I know there are quite a few photos here, but it was all so beautiful I felt like I was walking through a travel brochure.

The women are wearing the traditional Mayan garment called huipil.

The huipil is a garment worn as a blouse by Mayan women since ancient times. It is a square or rectangular piece of cloth with a hole in the center. It is generally embroidered around the neck, in the shape of a cross. The garment is then folded in half and the sides stitched up. The stitching stops on the sides to allow for armholes. The huipil is worn over a skirt which is tied with a woven belt.

The neck is elaborately embroidered with designs representing the cosmos, the gods and their helpers. When a Mayan woman puts on her huipil, she becomes the axis of this symbolically represented universe.




It was VERY warm out.




As the dancers finished, the chairs and bleachers that had been focused on them to one side of the street, began to move to face the end of that street. And when we returned after dinner, there was a dance contest being held! First the over 60 crowd, then came the 18-30 group. A whole stage and disco lighting schematic were thrown up in a matter of hours and would just as quickly disappear.

I said it felt like gay pride in West Hollywood:
Somehow we'd found the corner of the main square where all the gay guys of Merida hung out -✓.
I'd been standing in the street all day - ✓.
I was slightly sun burnt - ✓.
We'd eaten food from street vendors - ✓.
There had been a disco stage show -
✓.
I was with Ricky & Brad - ✓.
We'd somehow wound up at the Latin music tent - ✓.

So we made fun of the 19th century "courting chairs" (made so one seat faces each way and there is a rail in between each person. Nothing inappropriate could possibly happen...) and called it a night.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Sunday, Sunday in Merida

Finally Street Festival Sunday arrives. From the map above I can tell you that the majority of the action is centered around the main square at the bottom of the map. It's nuts. They were setting up tents starting the night before beginning before ten pm. I was prone to thinking, "Isn't it lucky we were here this weekend for all this?" But was corrected that they do this street closure, live band, outdoor shopping, food vending extravaganza EVERY SUNDAY.

There were numerous stalls of local handicrafts.

This one was a sweet crepe that got rolled up, then filled with Parmesan cheese. The cheese melted and the crepe got hard. It tasted like a sweet waffle cone filled with salty cheese. Super yummy.

I'm not one to eat off the street. Or even in the street. But this really did seem to be the place to go for it. And we did.

Fruit for sale.

Corn on the cob, slathered with mayonnaise then a spicy chili sauce, Parmesan cheese and topped with a squeeze of fresh lime to take the chili sting out.

This has a specific name that I can't recall. I dubbed it Pig & Pineapple. Instead of a lamb kebab being spit roasted, this is all pork. Above it is a whole pineapple that is being slow roasted and dripping down through the pork. The pork is shaved off then made into tacos with a little piece of the pineapple thrown on for flavor.Instead of washing dishes (this is a stall in the middle of the street with no running water), they place a plastic sack over them and throw away the plastic to reuse the plates again and again. These are panuchos because as you can see the corn tortilla is filled with black beans and deep fried.
Lyle said he was ordering 4 tacos. I thought we'd each have 2. Then they came and we had 4 each. Then Lyle ordered 2 more. Yeah they were tasty. Oh, and though I cut out about 6 other logos from the photo do you get the feeling COCA-COLA may be sponsoring this picture? Lyle said he normally doesn't drink Coke in the states, but in Mexico it is stilled made with real sugar (not corn syrup) and it actually tastes good.
That evening we dined at El Convento, a restaurant in a hotel called La Mision de Fray Diego. Since it was street festival Sunday we were the ONLY people in the restaurant. We had great service and great food.
Lyle had the Palella and we all helped him finish it.

Saturday, March 08, 2008

Merida Mermaids

Our hotel had a gracious courtyard with a stellar pool. After a hot day out in the sun plying ourselves with food, it was a delight to come back to the pool and cool off. Right above the pool was a wooden walkway that crossed from our grouping of rooms to the main house where breakfast was served. I was afraid of the catwalk.

While in Merida we were lucky enough to catch the latest craze, synchronized swimming! Just look at the lovely lads in our hotel pool!


Eat your heart out Esther Williams.

Friday, March 07, 2008

Merida, Saturday Night

After all that food we'd eaten during the day, these round figurines in the gift shop doorway summed up how we were feeling, FULL. But we persevered and took a tour of Merida by night.
I thought I had found the perfect place to get my haircut. Aren't these photos stylish? I so wanted to look like the one in the middle, Ricky Schroeder from the Silver Spoon years.

Then I found the real deal. Escuela De Alta Peluqueria, my friends tell me that translated it means the School of the High Wig. I would have booked my appointment for the tomorrow, but alas, it would be Sunday.

Merida has an unbelievable street life that launches full tilt for Sundays. We didn't expect much for the Saturday night but there was quite a lot of live music, closed off street, dancing, drinking and eating. Still full from our two lunches, we were only drinking casually.

Then it happened. We came across my favorite part of the evening. Our little songbird.
Though we came late to the performance and could not get a seat (all the tables AND row seating were filled!) we stood in the back and cheered her on. When she finally announced she was done for the night, the crowd rose to their feet and demanded, "Un otros! (another!)" and she gladly complied. Four times.

Note how her light is on the left side of the video and that she consistently plays to that side.

In the next video you can hear the people sitting next to us singing along with her!

After our little Meridian Edith Piaf completely left the stage, we headed for home. It had been a very full day and now that it was dark out I could go back to the hotel room, climb the stairs and use the bathroom in the dark so no one could see me through the window.

Thursday, March 06, 2008

Yucatingan cooking class

Our first full day in Mexico and we were up bright and early to take a cooking class. What an amazing introduction to our stay in Mexico. We met our instructor who used to live in Manhattan and has since relocated to Merida. He has studied the Mayan people like a food anthropologist with a passion for the flavors and history of the area that is contagious.

After a history lesson of the area and how that impacts the regional food, we were off to a guided tour of the market.
Radishes. Though lovingly and beautifully displayed, we weren't having any of those today. Instead we'd be having a whole lotta'....Peppers.

and spices.

In the market we saw how mass produced corn tortillas were made. When we got back to class we learned how handmade corn tortillas are made... with our hands.
Our local food artisan gave us the pre-measured amount of corn masa and we rolled it around in our hands then patted it out, then placed it on a piece of plastic and gently continued the pat down as we turned it to create a perfect circle. Or in my case, then gave it to her to put back together and make it right. Then the tortilla is transferred to the hot pan in the upper portion of the photo. Once cooked, a hand made tortilla can be separated (not so with the machine made ones) and filled with a thin layer of refried beans. This would be the base of our panuchos.


Next we learned how to make salbutes y polkanes which means corn, bean and squash seed fritters. This involves stuffing a circle of dough with the bean/corn mixture then sealing it up. Lyle and I had a slight advantage on this one as this is the same technique Lyle's grandmother had taught us to make perogies.

All of that is then deep fried. The tortilla's are topped with lettuce, shredded chicken, tomato and red onions that had been pickled in sour orange juice. Voilá! Lunch!

After lunch we now had the fuel to make ... later lunch!

For late lunch, chicken and peppers would be the main ingredients.
No, silly. Not the wooden chicken.

First we fire roasted the long light green peppers. You can do it outside, on a gas stove (as we did) or even use a welding blow torch. Once the outer skin in blackened, then you place the peppers either in a plastic bag or under a damp towel to steam off the charred bits. After the peppers have cooled to the touch, you wash them under running water to clear off all the black bits. That washing part was quite the choker. If you breathed in through your mouth the fumes off the peppers would choke you.

Next we were preparing Crema de X'Catik (creamy soup of mild blond chiles) which didn't seem so mild when we were cleaning them.
Cleaned, rinsed then dried, the roasted peppers were added to an already simmering broth of chicken stock with onions, garlic, butter and wine. After additional cooking, the peppers were pureed and at last...
Delicious Cream was added (to take some of the sting out)

Fire roasted pepper soup. Hey!, I made that!

This is the beginning of the Tamale Colados. Corn masa square base, shredded chicken and sauce then wrapped in a banana leaf (blissfully unscented as I loathe bananas) and tied up to be steamed cooked in a pit. We also made Pollo Pibil which was a chicken breast smothered in a local red sauce, wrapped and tied in a banana leaf then cooked in a pit (that's what pibil means, pit).
Mystery wraps with picked onion.

Chicken and tamales. Do not adjust your monitor's color. It really was that red.

We finished off the meal with Helado de Chocolate Mexicano. This one was easy, just as I know the word for Whipped cream in Portuguese (Chantilly) I know that Helado is Spanish for Ice Cream. We did not make this that day as it takes overnight to create. I really should have asked for seconds.

And now a word from our sponsor of the day: Spicy Peppers!
Featured at the mid point in our day was a spicy habenero sauce: The Fiery Habanero Table Salsa! (You can find the original recipe by following the link to the cooking school)

6-8 medium green chiles habaneros (Substitute: Scotch bonnet chiles), charred, stems removed
• 1/4 cup (75ml) sour orange or Seville orange. Substitute: 2 parts lime juice, 1 part each orange juice and grapefruit juice)
• Pinch sea salt
Place all the ingredients in a blender, cover with lid. Puree!

I love this side note on the recipe:
CAUTION: When you remove the lid, step away from the blender and keep face turned. A very potent aroma that can cause you to cough will emanate from the blender.
Everyone tried a very small dab of the sauce when it was done. Everyone but me. I, dear friends, am afraid of spicy. But by the time we got to eating and due in large part to the availability of cream (to take the bite away) I decided to do my part. Which brought about the conversation, "Either totally brave or absolutely stupid."

WOW THAT'S HOT!
(pre-tan, note the color of my chest.)